黑白令我糊塗了

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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章NetNetBoy » 2012-04-16, 09:40

推高的方法是讓慢慢變大... 平粒的tmax/Delta不合適...
那易買到的得返HP5.... Tri-X重有?
FP4+ 係ISO64來... 叫你125用已經推高左...

(負片的話)
如果想再高ISO... 你可以加長Develop但唔好搖咁快... 咁d暗位會好返d...
中間好似可以加個水沉... 等少少Develop慢慢用... (Stop Bath前)
見d鬼佬好似成2x分鐘...

:mrgreen: 上策是請教 龍哥
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章進仔 » 2012-04-16, 11:11

龍哥好似試過上海 谷到1600.. :oops:
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章eddy777hk9999 » 2012-04-16, 11:46

米奇sir......沖tri x 有咩要注重

Net net,如果我用jobo look.....係咪無浸咁好

Ilford.....hp5較好?

進兄....我無內功.....試過谷1600已經.......
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章NetNetBoy » 2012-04-16, 11:59

hc110啦... 淡d照比例...

我諗你用JOBO重要8x10咁大張... 考慮水沖算啦...
或者正常4分鐘後改淡HC110...

HC110比例:
HC110B 1+7 要 10 mins
=
HC110 1+15 要 20 mins

*整體分暗位會大至相同... 但HC110(1+15)會微粒粗左... 相對暗位好左層次... 但放大冇咁正... (8x10冇所謂 :evil: )
你可以同一個位 影2筒, 分別沖, 再scan放大比較, 試GP3 law... 我上次好似試Tri-X
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章NetNetBoy » 2012-04-16, 12:01

:oops: 你只係想要ISO800?

任何一隻Kodak,Ilford沖ISO800都OK ka woo...
GP3就似ISO40... 好難上ISO800... 龍哥秘技例外...
:evil:
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章mickey_mouse » 2012-04-16, 12:40

Tri-X, the only point you need to pay attention is you can buy it. Seem only available on Taobao or ebay or other internet shop.

Tri-x is very ready for push and pull.
especially if you can made some Diafine http://blog.blackandwhitefineart.net/2011/01/diafine/

or 1600 in xtol.
圖檔

or 3200 at xtol
圖檔

you can always push tri-x with almost all common developer.

If you buy/make any Diafine, I want some also. :wink: Thanks.
The World is 3D, Why take only 2D photos?
B&W. 617, 612, 45, 69, 67, 66, 135, APS-C
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章進仔 » 2012-04-16, 13:39

tmax400 都 official 話可上1600 ..其實我都幾常用...覺得ok架..


305574_3607794921575_1474754745_33303244_2122282742_n.jpg
305574_3607794921575_1474754745_33303244_2122282742_n.jpg (31.93 KiB) 被瀏覽 12312 次
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章eddy777hk9999 » 2012-04-16, 14:26

Net net,因為係放相用,所以只會影45

手頭上120 tmax100 同fp4都有

咁即係可試push上800先,跟住就試tmax400

同tri x,問ilford其實因為易買同平過tmax好多......

其實之前都試左樂凱推800的了,影像還可,

但灰階少左同開始見到粗,所以先諗用外國片!
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章mickey_mouse » 2012-04-16, 14:44

Diafine is usable over a wide temperature range with one developing time for all films. Fast, medium and slow films can now be developed simultaneously without adjustment in developing time. All films with the exception of a few extremely slow emulsions are automatically developed to normal contrast. Time and temperature have no practical effect if the minimum recommendations are observed.

Diafine film developer is unsurpassed in its ability to produce greatest effective film speed, ultra-fine grain, maximum acutance and highest resolution. It is a characteristic of Diafine film developer to permit the widest latitude of exposure without the necessity of time-temperature compensation.

Diafine normally push 1 to 2 steps for most black and white film.
Technical Information: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/Acufine_Diafine.pdf

Diafine Formula
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/1182 ... rmula.html
Solution A
Sodium Sulfite, 35 grams - Hydroquinone, 6 grams
Phenidone, 0.2 grams - Sodium Bisulfite, 6 grams
Water to make, 1 liter

Solution B
Sodium Sulfite, 65 grams - Sodium Metaborate, 20 grams
Or, Borax 20 grams, for results "like that of D76"
Water to make, 1 liter


Diafine revisited: Ascorbate version
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/9318 ... rsion.html
I was made some experiment with Diafine formula and replace 6g of Hydroquinone in bath A to 10g of Sodium Ascorbate. so my formula of Diafine-C:

Bath A
Sodium sulfite 65g
Phenidone 0,2g
Sodium Ascorbate 10g
Sodium metabisulfite 5g
Water 1l

Bath B
Borax 10g
Sodium sulfite 65g
Water 1l

usage 3min in each bath. results is very good - really less grain

Diafine-type film developer
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/6316 ... ecipe.html
Solution A
Water (52C) 750 ml
Sodium sulfite (anh) 35 g
Hydroquinone 6 g
Phenidone 200 mg
Sodium bisulfite 6 g
WTM 1 l

Solution B
Water (52C) 750 ml
Sodium sulfite (anh) 65 g
Borax 20 g
WTM 1 l

Soak film in Solution A for 3 minutes and then transfer to Solution B without rise for 3 minutes. Do not use presoak or acid stop bath. This is said to give one stop speed increase over D-76 with similar grain and sharpness. It can be used at any temperature between 20C and 28C without adjustment


http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/1313 ... llent.html
Part A:
Sodium sulfite, anhydrous 35g
Hydroquinone 6g
Phenidone 0.2g
Potassium metabisulfite 6g
Water to 1l

Part B:
Sodium sulfite, anh. 65g
Sodium tetraborate, X10H2O 20 g
Water to 1l

I took potassium metabisulfite instead of recommended sodium bisulfite because the former replaces the latter freely weight by weight, and it's more stable. Also, I got only metabisulfite on my shelf The people make much fuss about the alkali used in a part B - the tetraborate works fine, so I see no point to try any kodalk (metaborate) or even carbonate, as some folks could suggest here and there. I am absolutely sure you should make our solutions at least the night ahead your development (as with any phenidone-containing solutions), so it ripens well.

I always use isopropylic alcohol to dissolve phenidone - about 20 ml per liter works fine. Apart from its capabiliy to dissolve the stubborn powder, it probably adds to the shelf life of my mixtures.

The process is quite simple: load your film in the tank, and fill it with enough part A (temp. about 20-22 C, though people claims it makes no much difference). I agitate the film in A quite vigorously, maybe 20 sec of each minute for 5 min. Then you dump the A solution back into the bottle, and fill the tank with part B, the quicker the better to avoid streaks. You should give your tank a good tap to avoid any bubbles clogging to film. I agitate in B not too strongly, like two slow inversions each minute for 5 min. After you're done with B, dump it in its bottle, rinse the film with a tap water, and pour in the fixer. Process as usual further. It should work fine!
The World is 3D, Why take only 2D photos?
B&W. 617, 612, 45, 69, 67, 66, 135, APS-C
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章NetNetBoy » 2012-04-16, 15:00

:oops: 咁你係想玩push?

如果連價錢考慮... 樂凱45有ISO400賣?
Ilford應該貴Kodar好多woo... 不過Ilford長命d...

還是你想有不同ISO應付不同環境?
夜境又唔同計法woo... 偏T粒 和 正常粒 曝光時間唔同...

一般用過... Tmax400,Delta400等偏粒上ISO1600都冇問題...
Tri-X,HP3之類玩ISO1600以上

重有應該係Delta3200... 友站玩過:
http://www.gaforum.org/showthread.php?t=132060

120同45玩push應有不同... 你諗定目標...
大家比d數據你... 你再開始試啦... 我家下talk only...
重有幾筒120未沖 :oops:

eddy777hk9999 寫:Net net,因為係放相用,所以只會影45

手頭上120 tmax100 同fp4都有

咁即係可試push上800先,跟住就試tmax400

同tri x,問ilford其實因為易買同平過tmax好多......

其實之前都試左樂凱推800的了,影像還可,

但灰階少左同開始見到粗,所以先諗用外國片!
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章進仔 » 2012-04-16, 16:37

Delta3200 個 base 好似係 1000, 要800的話可能可以直用? :roll:
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章mickey_mouse » 2012-04-16, 17:02

進仔 寫:Delta3200 個 base 好似係 1000, 要800的話可能可以直用? :roll:


Bingo.
The World is 3D, Why take only 2D photos?
B&W. 617, 612, 45, 69, 67, 66, 135, APS-C
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章NetNetBoy » 2012-04-16, 17:10

我印象係2000? 但要睇用咩Developer!

進仔 寫:Delta3200 個 base 好似係 1000, 要800的話可能可以直用? :roll:
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章NetNetBoy » 2012-04-16, 17:18

係woo... 又想起... 放相 同 scan 同 直接看(正片) 唔同...

菲林微粒會對沖相紙...
scan同放相就好大分別...
不過scan... 不如用數碼啦...

正片可能睇唔出...
但你影45應是放相? 幾倍也沒大分別...
:twisted:
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Re: 黑白令我糊塗了

文章eddy777hk9999 » 2012-04-16, 18:11

其實係咁嘅,我其中一輯相主要係影街市

由於比較昏暗,我部110b全開光圈4.7

Push到400,1/30秒,片都係偏薄

以前特登試過兩次,沖耐d會厚番,但微粒就開始粗了!

同埋我都希望可以收少少光圈幫助景深

我自己的結論係應該要iso 800至1000

微粒尚可,咁將來如果有些少作品出到

都會放1620的!所以就問下你地

如果push800-100對tmax hp5要求都唔算太呵刻的話

咁就會用,因為都叫做淘寶訂到!
以45計
Ilford 而家大約320人仔25張
Tmax就要400-450人仔十張了
所以想問清楚少少,因為真係幾貴
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